I’ve extensively tested cars with the cams/rotors upgraded and downgraded and there is only one conclusion I can come to: You just cannot transfer your momentum very well during a drift without upgrading the cams/rotors as much it will allow for the car class! They think that they can drift just fine by not upgrading the cams/rotors and revving far into the “red zone” of your tachometer like common practice in real life, but that is a false thought in the world of Horizon. When you drift, you’re often “red-lining” your engine.Īllot of drifters tend to over-look this upgrade. It is because of one simple line of logic:
Forza horizon 5 best cars in each class upgrade#
On the face of it, this upgrade will allow your engine to rev higher while offering a noticeable boost in top-speed BUT, that is just scratching the surface! This upgrade also offers a secret and surprising side effect for drifters! The reason why however, is a bit complicated: ^.^)Ĭamshaft/Rotors: This upgrade is THE most important upgrade you can take advantage of if you plan on drifting at all. And so, this guide will indeed be helpful to those wishing to use it in Horizon 2. HOWEVER, Horizon 1 and Horizon 2 are almost exactly the same in terms of upgrading parts. For example, the points certain upgrades cost. And so, some examples won’t be exactly accurate. (Please note: This guide was intended for Horizon #1. That should answer all of your questions and then some. I’ll rip off some bits from it dedicated to modifications for everyone to see. I’ve actually been working on a Horizon Racing Guide for some time now. Not many people actually know about what what truly makes a RWD car tick on Horizon. PS were you the guy in fh who was a speed drifter? My questions are not meant to imply you are wrong but they are areas where I believe a lot of top forza builders/tuners would provide different advice. Why not leave the driveline until you see if you have 1 or 2 pi to spend at the end. Why race transmission when many other transmissions are fine and cost less pi With tuning now I prefer tuned front and rear arbs. Why stock front arbs? I did this in fh1 due to no tuning. If you do not, you’ll find it quite difficult to win with RWD. Restrained front tire-width upgrades, (Too much front-tire width will cause bad understeer) SUPER lightweight rims, (The lighter, the better) ^.^Īlways go with as much weight reduction as possible,Īs much engine block/cam upgrades as possible, The key is weight reduction: a lighter car will always be more flexible and maneuverable then a heavier car which is all the more important when racing on the tight roads of Horizon.
They can make the leader boards as well when tuned/driven properly. I personally always go with RWD cars with only a couple of exceptions.
That’s what the wee cars are forĪny car can be fast as long as you tune it right and choose your car in consideration with the road you will be racing on. Not nimble enough, and too large a target. I’ll admit though, they’re USELESS in playground games. My massive Pontiac GTO has surprised many a wrecker when their little Honda or whatever simply bounced off me. The heft of an unlightened musclecar and the grip of a nice fat set of tyres put you in a good spot when the hits come in. Reason being, I build my cars primarily for online play, not hotlapping, so I get my handling in other ways. Weight reduction is good, but I don’t usually do it. Shame on you then, if you were serious about wallriding ¦:(Īnyway, re: building a musclecar. I have #1’s on some cross country event in San Giovanni in a nearly stock 427 Cobra and a power-build GT40. I rather put the PI towards making the car lighter or adding power. The only time I really use AWD is online. In my.opinion tyre compound is not needed in A class ever.Īll hold top tens in A class on stock tyre compound in cross country.
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